I am not aware of any great sites for learning web design. I learned basic HTML from this site: http://www.lissaexplains.com/ yes it may seem childish, but it is a very helpful site.
For a great program, there is nothing to directly compete with Macromedia Dreamweaver, but I have found a great little program called NVU http://www.nvu.com/ however, it is inactive and possibly not being developed anymore. But, a bunch of users who love the product are continuing developing it and have renamed it Kompozer, a temporary branch from NVU until the developers either announce the next version or cancel the product.
As far as I know, there is no official site for Kompozer, you can download it from Download.com here: http://www.download.com/KompoZer/3000-20鈥?/a>
Hope this helps! :)
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